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The sharp smell of spicy pepper flakes hangs in the air at a kimchi factory in a city near Seoul. Within, brined napa cabbage submerges in large metal vats during the initial stage of a traditional process.

"Kimchi has become a world food originating in Korea, but this is illogical," says one producer. "Our domestic market has been captured."

The challenge originates from a widening import-export gap. South Korea brings in a greater volume of kimchi than it exports, with more affordable Chinese-produced products gaining a foothold in the domestic market.

A Costly Difference

Kimchi from China sells to restaurants at about 1,700 won per kilogram. However, Korean-made versions are priced at roughly 3,600 won per kilogram—more than double the price.

From January to October this year, imports reached $159 million, predominantly from China, while overseas sales amounted to $137 million.

More Than Just Cabbage

This fermented dish is a cornerstone of food culture on the Korean peninsula. Its definition includes much more than the fiery napa cabbage most familiar to global audiences.

• There are more than 150 recognised types, made with radish, cucumber, spring onions and other vegetables.
• They are seasoned with mixtures of pepper flakes, garlic, ginger and jeotgal.
• The natural fermentation produces beneficial lactic acid bacteria, bolstering its reputation as a nutritious food.

Shifting Habits

Traditionally, families made large quantities together during kimjang, a practice designated by UNESCO. Yet, how Koreans consume kimchi are evolving.

One-person homes have increased dramatically since 2000, now representing more than 36% of all households. Consequently, fewer people make kimchi at home.

Instead, it is increasingly consumed pre-packaged or while eating out, where it is served free of charge with every meal. Asking payment for such a basic side dish would be unthinkable.

The Producer's Plight

"If you manage to break even and stay afloat, that’s already fortunate," says one manufacturer. "In our industry over the past decade, we haven’t been able to invest in facilities."

‘A Food That Contains Our Soul’

Economic realities mean that price, rather than provenance or method, is now the primary consideration.

One producer who has run a facility for 29 years canceled plans for expansion years ago as foreign kimchi became popular. "Should we really be using imported kimchi when this is a food that embodies our heritage?" he says. "It’s truly heartbreaking."

Compounding Pressures

These difficulties are compounded by the climate crisis, which is harming cabbage farming. Summer cultivation has become harder in traditional highland growing areas, causing wholesale cabbage prices to sharply increase from one year to the next.

Government agencies and producers are developing hardier cabbage types and better storage, but industry groups doubt whether these steps can counteract the economic pressures.

Around three-quarters of South Korea’s kimchi manufacturers are very small enterprises with four or fewer employees, relying on handcrafted techniques that find it hard to compete with large-scale production in China.

Seeking Solutions

The industry is attempting to adapt, albeit with few options.

• A voucher scheme offers restaurants a financial incentive to return to using Korean-made kimchi.
• There are calls for increased scrutiny of declared import prices for kimchi.
• Government measures include origin labeling programs for restaurants, farm aid for cabbage growers, and research to extend kimchi’s storage time for export.

A Matter of Taste

In the end, many are convinced that superior quality remains the local industry's strongest defence.

"Our kimchi has a unique taste," states an association head. "It is impossible to copy."